I didn't know much about South America but my curiosity was awakened by stories of spiritual adventure. I'd always been open to the unconventional and serendipitously, the opportunity to travel to Peru under the guidance of local shaman presented itself.
After three planes, a bus and a boat we found ourselves in the heart of the Amazon where social networking is blissfully unreachable, and jungle chatter the only soundtrack. A plucky parrot named Pedro whose one word vocabulary kept us surprisingly amused, accosted us at the riverbank and reluctantly led the way to our room.
Built on stilts, the homes are basic but charming and full of chickens and children. Our host was dressed in a grubby oversized polo shirt, but he possessed a richness that transcends any clumsy definition of wealth. Under his tutelage our days were spent studying bygone arts and peacefully fishing for piranha - an oxymoron if ever I heard one. Evenings were reserved for spiritual schooling and star gazing from idyllic boats attended by carnation pink dolphins. This uncomplicated life is joyous and as the time to leave grew closer, I became restless and impatient to face the world with my new found energy.
As the sun came up on a perfect Amazonian morning, we continued our journey into the mountains, pockets jammed with coca leaves. As we zigzagged through rainy farmland, I gazed out the window and was struck by an overwhelming feeling of gratitude. The highlands are so remote that much of the work here has to be done by hand, and to muster a meal it's all hands on deck. From the comfort of the bus I watched as Mother and Father dragged the plough, Grandma pushed deathly hard, while baby lay nestled alone in a recently toiled trough. I blushed as my fifteen-minute commute to Tesco suddenly felt like a gift from the Gods.
With these thoughts heavily lingering, it seemed only a matter of minutes before the snow-capped mountains surrounded us like angelic minders. Here the road dribbles to an end and a brave walk to the summit will earn you a view. The prize is scandalous in its beauty. The air is so clear it sharpens the senses. Colours appear more vivid, the birds seem to be singing only to you, and your most intimate thoughts abandon their disguise and creep into consciousness. This vista serves up drama and in spite of it all, you can't help but feel completely at peace.
I believe that travel inspires the imagination and keeping an open mind can sometimes reward us with unexpected gifts. Although our group was undoubtedly connected by a shared experience, this trip was very much a personal pilgrimage. Living amongst the Shaman and his family I witnessed an honest vignette of Peruvian tradition that left me humbled. I'd naively wished for monumental change but what I came home with was a series of important little lessons.
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| Sunrise on the Amazon River |
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| Up into the mountains |
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| Local Shaman |
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| Machu Picchu |
