Chiang Mai - Part Two

On my second day word of mouth takes me to the Elephant Nature Park. Unlike the majority of animal attractions being peddled at every corner, Lek and her team have created a genuine sanctuary where a loving ethos is the only agenda. The elephants are not working to entertain the thousands of backpackers passing through Chiang Mai every year. This is their home, and its doors are thrown open to willing hands eager to make contact with these spectacular animals, and educate themselves on the miserable reality for so many of them.

The setting is indeed a sanctuary and not just in practical terms. Nestled in a valley that's bordered by a river and surrounded by forested mountains, this flourishing landscape provides a happy ending for so many heartbreaking stories. Like Jokia, a gentle old lady rescued for a fee of two thousand dollars from illegal loggers. She was forced to work through her entire pregnancy and sadly lost her baby not long after giving birth. Heartbroken, Jokia refused to eat and depression eventually took hold of her. In a savage attempt to get her working again, the loggers blinded her in one eye with a catapult, but she refused to move and so they took out her second eye along with her spirit. Such cruelty is impossible to fathom and I sob uncontrollably as I gaze up into her weary face. No one should know such suffering and I wonder about the hundreds of animals that were not quite as 'lucky' as Jokia.

With less than a full day to make a difference, I throw myself into the relaxed routine carved out by the other volunteers fortunate enough to stay at Lek's farm. Duties include preparing the food, feeding the elephants and restocking the pantry after the animals have been fed. Feeding time is like babysitting and I giggle as my mischievous ward insists on hurling the vegetables back in favour of watermelon which he seeks out with his hungry trunk. Bellies eventually full and alliances formed, we then take our giant toddlers down to the river where the remains of the day are spent frolicking in the water. Elephants love bath time and relish every cold bucket of water thrown in their direction. Totally drenched from various counter-attacks, the time quickly comes for reluctant farewells and I jump on a bus headed back to the city.

In the haze of so many happy encounters it would be easy to forget the reason why we were all there to begin with. As I leave however, I'm dealt a harsh reminder when I pass a solitary female recently admitted and shunned by the herd. Hideously underweight and covered in open sores, these wounds are a result of the bullhooks used by elephant trainers. As I stare out the window at the retreating farm, I consider the day's lesson and the reality that most tourists will be seduced into unknowingly supporting this animal cruelty...

The Elephant Nature Park

Jokia

Elephant Pantry

Bathtime

Boisterous Baby

Chiang Mai - Part One

I'm so tired my face hurts. It's 4am and I lie there disorientated as the alarm clock screams cruelly in my ears. Due to rescheduling at work, I missed the overnight train Northbound and I'm forced to take an early flight the next morning. I'm disappointed to be denied the romance and discomfort of the fifteen hour sleeper, as well as the views of Chiang Mai and it's surrounding countryside at sunrise. However, I'm happy to escape Bangkok for a few days, and the only child in me looks forward to the comfort and familiarity of solitude. 

As soon as I land in Chiang Mai I feel the burden of worry fall away. The heavy smog of the Bangkok skyline is nowhere to be seen, and the tree lined streets and delicious fresh air come as a welcome change. There's something vibrant and carefree about this place and it oddly reminds me of an Asian Venice Beach. Shabby chic shop fronts, adorable coffee shops and stunning boutiques give you the feeling that Chiang Mai is stylish, relaxed and quietly confident. Yes, there are a lot of tourists but the city is so full of personality that you don't mind sharing it.

I drop my bags at the hotel and resist the urge to sleep in favour of A Lot of Thai - Chiang Mai's top cookery school and host to Gordon Ramsay. Run by Yui and her husband, this course is the perfect blend of facts and fun served up in a wonderful home environment. The tone is set when Yui swings by to collect you in the family campervan, a glorious VW from the mid 1960's. After dropping her daughter off at school, we head to the the local market to pick up the ingredients for my lesson. This exotic wonderland can only be described as a circus of the senses, and I amble distractedly through the maze of foreign goodies. Yui guides me through my shopping list and patiently answers all of my questions before we hop in the van and head home to meet the rest of the family. Over the next few hours I make (and eat) an impressive feast of Pad Thai, Red Curry and Tom Yum. Under Yui's expert supervision I manage to create three authentic and surprisingly tasty dishes that got me so excited, I broke my personal rule of not photographing food. 

Sleep deprived but blissfully happy I head back to the hotel for an early night. As I turn into the street a traditional Thai funeral begins it's journey from a neighbouring house. Desperate to photograph the life and colour that spills onto the road, I think better of it and quietly stand back to let the procession pass. It's one of those moments you commit to memory... The vibe is carnival, and to a soundtrack of heady music, a sea of smiling faces greet me warmly as they dance by en route to the temple. I'm fast falling in love with this soulful city and before I even get a chance to remember the day, I tumble onto the crisp white sheets and slip into a contented sleep.

Temple Colours

Market Food

A Lot of Thai Cookery School

Pad Thai Triumph

Three Kings Monument